Surfing... an introduction

Surfing is quite simply planing on water... Think of a water-skier. Until the boat moves off he is submerged. As the boat accelerates the water-skier rises to the top and planes. The faster you go, the less planing area you actually need. A novice catching a broken wave is only travelling at about 6mph, so when you are learning to surf you need plenty of planing area. If your not planing then you are sinking so the second requirement is good floatation (volume). As you get better (and ride better waves) you can reduce the planing area accordingly if you wish but you might want to hang on to the original bigger floatier board as it's always handy for small or weak conditions. (and friends!)

When you buy... Choosing the right size and volume of board is more important than either the make or construction (or colour). As a general rule-of-thumb we usually recommend choosing a board which is 18" to 2 foot taller than the rider with a very full plan shape i.e. egg shaped as opposed to pointy. This type of board is known in the U.K. as a Mini-Mal and they generally range in size from 7 ish to 8 ish foot. Kids being on the whole being younger, fitter and more agile than adults, can usually get away with a smaller size to weight ratio. Generally then, a board between 6 to 18 inches taller will be OK and they can also pare down the plan-shape and thickness a little too. You could also go for a Full-sized Longboard at 9 ft plus, the bigger you go, the easier it will plane and the quicker you will be standing up. The trade off though is that it will be hard to hang on it in bigger surf, hard to get out through the surf, hard to turn and even hard to get up and down the beach! On the other hand you like the look of the Longboard style of surfing and be a fan of the Beach Boys in which case, go for it! It is now possible to hire many different types and sizes of board so try a few different ones prior to purchase. We even run a "Try Before You Buy" Hire Fleet. You can phone us for practical advice on boards and suits on 01271/890453 or e-mail us at croydebay@aol.com

If you are a beginner or infrequent surfer we suggest you're probably better off sticking to NSP and Bic. If you are a beginner/improver/intermediate then maybe a Custom Epoxy such as Take-Off, Cortez or Circle One would be best. If your better than that then you probably know what you want already, but we've covered ever type for those researching second-hand boards off of E-Bay etc. If you are tempted to buy from E-Bay be careful, there are bargains to be had but they are few and far between. When I got the time I'll list just a few of the horror stories... Few tips though, learnt thru bitter experience... 1/ The pictures, no matter how good, cannot be relied upon to show up defects or other shortcomings and seldom give any indication of volume/floatation. 2/ Avoid boards without fins, they may be totally unobtainable despite what the vendor says. 3/ Don't forget the postage costs, they will be substantial regardless of what the vendor says. 4/ If a private sale is packed and posted by a private individual expect the board to arrived underpacked and damaged!

Surfboard Construction

There was a time when there were only a couple of ways to make a surfboard but there has been an explosion of new products over the last few years -although not exhaustive, this page lists the most common boards you are likely to encounter....

SOFTBOARDS

These are boards used in the main by surf schools (and some hire outlets), the most commonly seen brand is "SWELLS". They are often referred to as "Foamies". There are different sizes available, the best size for adult beginners probably being the 8 foot model although you can get 7' and 9' as well. They are usually blue and yellow with a black single fin. The soft foam construction prevents damage to the user, even the fin is "soft" to a degree. They are very thick for maximum float. They are very good boards for learning how to get to your feet but lack the refinement to behave like a real surfboard. These are not usually found for sale in surf shops as they cost around £235 ex-factory inc VAT and delivery, they are grown out of very quickly and therefore they are not something you would normally buy. They stand hard use reasonably well. They can be re-skinned (for a price). We hire several sizes of Swells. SOFTBOARDS TO BUY- There have been quite a few attempts recently by other manufactures to break into the Swells dominated softboard market. There are now a few "affordable" softboards on the market but these have polystyrene cores and without a hard outer "shell" are vunerable to unrepairable damage and are best avoided. For 2006 we are stocking a new affordable range of Softboards that do not have polystyrene cores. These come in various sizes and this will include kids sizes.  For 2006 we also have a new American Softboard joining our hire fleet. We might even keep a few to sell. We hire and give lessons using Swell Boards.

SOFT-TOPS ( also known as "HARD & SOFTS")

These boards have now been around in the U.K. for about 8 years and are the backbone of many a hire fleet. "Softops" are good beginner/intermediate boards and are generally under-rated. (Read on..) These boards are made in the biggest surfboard factory in the world... in Thailand. They are made by laminating together an epoxy resin/pvc shell, wrapped around a pre-formed polystyrene core. You can get them in 2 main forms... The made-for-hire-abuse Soft-Top versions, which is remarkably durable, or top end lightweight signature models using the very best lightweight materials including sometimes wood veneer. These top end boards sell for £600-£800 whilst the lowly "Hard and Soft" version retails at £289 for the 7'6". Despite using the same core, you would never guess that they are related and can in fact be identical in shape at least! In our humble experience virtually nobody buys a "Softop" new but everybody wants an "Ex-Hire" one.

From the same factory in Thailand comes the brand that has become the world's market leader "entry-level" surfboard (although Bic would probably disagree!) Launched in the UK in 2003 (and available all around the world) these boards have become the Kelloggs Cornflakes of the surfing world. A reacreational surfboard for every man, woman and child on the planet. Over engineered so fool's won't break them and priced to include many (normally extra) "extra's". A Generous marketing stratagy gives you a "free" tailpad, leash, screwdriver, keyring and sticker, you even get a scouring pad to clean the wax off! Prices have climbed year-on-year (in common with all entry-level epoxy boards) so they don't look quite as cheap as they did... that said, resale value is excellent. The boards themselves are strong as an ox and have generous size and bouyancy (except the stupid little ones!) so they are ideal first buys.

Custom Hand-made epoxy boards from China are now eroding NSP's market share to some degree as they are actually cheaper and better looking...although not as suitable as a first time buy. 

BIC SPORT SURFBOARDS Bic are another major player in the "entry level" recreational surfboard market, and yes it is the same company that makes the razors and pens. Chances are that if your looking to buy your first surfboard, it will be either an NSP or a BIC. In fact I have even found web pages and forums dedicated to arguing about which is the better board!

Just to confuse you further Bic make two different types of board, ACS and CTS so it's not quite as simple as a Bic versus NSP issue.

ACS Bics

Are available as 5'10" Fish, 6'7" Shortboard, 7'3" Mini-mal, 7'9" Mini-mal (The Easy Rider) and 8'4" Mini-mal (The Magnum). These boards are made with a moulded polyethylene shell injected with "real" polyurethane surfboard foam. Polyethylene is a soft plastic similar to that used in Fairy Liquid bottles etc. The polyurethane foam used is not in fact as light or a buoyant as polystyrene (also known as EPS). All are injected through a hole in the nose which is then concealed by a plastic "noseguard". These ACS boards generally have a good reputation for durability, the soft polyethylene plastic however will dent, especially when Family Bunter uses the board for a rock setee. Another thing we quite often also see rails compressed by severe bondage sessions on car roofs. Strangely though, by some sort of miraculous self-healing process, the boards seem to recover in time for the next hire outrage. The decals are only transfers though and are a bit prone to scuffing. These ACS boards are relatively cheap to buy they aren't the best of surfboards but Bic sell shed loads of them. (So do we!) Avoid the "old model" 7' 9" (without the capped nose), it splits open irrepairably at the nose with alarming frequency.. problem solved with the Mk 2 version now on sale.

CTS Bics

The CTS Bics are available as 6'10" Shortboard, 7'6" Mini-mal (The Performer) 9' Longboard and a 10' (Noserider). These boards are made from a thermo-formed sandwich construction on a polystyrene (EPS) core. Bic don't give too much away but basically it's a pretty similar construction to the NSP. Unlike the NSP though, the CTS Bic's do have a faint seam line on the rail. This is not a worry however, these boards (CTS Bic's) are the strongest we have ever come across. They seem virtually impossible to damage, we have seen them blow down the road in a gale and suffer no damage other than scuffed decals! The main Bic CTS board of interest for most will be the latest addition to the range, the Bic 7'6" "Performer" Mini-mal. Now this is a good board, we have just bought a load for hire. It's incredibly strong and light too, even the hire brigade don't seem to be able to break them. Our only criticism (if it is a criticism) of the Bic CTS boards, is that they are not as thick or buoyant as the NSP's (which are a full 3" thick). That said, as you get better at planing you won't want so much volume as it inhibits performance. They are also just a tad easier to duck dive. Arguably then, these boards are slightly more performance orientated than their NSP equivalent although you do have to sacrifice a little float to achieve this.

TRADITIONAL CUSTOM SURFBOARDS (Polyester) These are the traditional fibreglass boards that we know and love, made the same way for the last 60 ish years... Hand made from polyurathane foam and fibreglass cloth (hence also known as Glass boards) A true custom is made to order for an individual, a "stock custom" is the same construction but already made. They have suffered a bad press in recent years as we all bow down to the God of Epoxy. Endless Video's, DVD's Extreme Sports Channel shots of Superstars and their broken boards serve to convince people that these board are fragile and are only for top surfers. Well if you'd started surfing a few years ago this would have been pretty much your only choice. There is nothing wrong with a well made polyester custom board. You see so many broken because the superstars have them lightly glassed for competition and they go out in bigger surf too....

A fibreglass board is generally lightweight which offers the best in performance terms plus they are also beautiful to behold. Yes they ding but it's seldom that big a deal. In our experience people are terrified of damage (on any board) they bring boards into the shop to ask what they should do because they dinged their board, usually it's such a tiny mark or crack we can't even find it. You can surf these boards with foam hanging out.. it's closed cell, not like a sponge! 

The core is "blown" first from high-density polyurethane foam ("the blank"). This is then "shaped" & "glassed". The greater the reputation and experience of the shaper & factory/brand that produce the board affects the ultimate selling price. Decals & artwork are normally glassed in under the surface. The lighter it is- the weaker it will be but the better it will perform. Using a good shaper that knows you, how you surf, where you surf etc. would be the ideal way of getting a board that is right for you...but also the most expensive. If you have a custom board made for you you will also be able to specify the exact construction including finish and fins. Custom boards come in all shapes and sizes and there are many second-hand ones about. Many are shortboards which are not good boards to learn on. These tend to be fairly cheap (especially once over 2 years old) and many turn up in places such as E-Bay to tempt the unwary.

Just a year or two ago the main option for beginners was the secondhand Mini-mal (7'-8' and "egg-shaped"). Demand far outstripped the supply and you would pay almost as much for a s/h one as a new one, if you could find one s/h at all! This now has all changed (thanks to Bic/NSP etc. and the "recreational surfboard") however there is no reason why you cannot learn to surf on a custom (or Epoxy Custom) as long as they are big enough with enough volume. It is of course possible to go along to a surfboard "shaper" and get your own board made and if you are honest about your abilities you will get a good board to learn on...this may not be a very cheap option though.

Avoid a board that has been snapped then repaired, even if done "properly" the balance is changed. Likewise be very suspicious of any lateral stripes & check for damage to the stringer. Stickers sometimes cover "dings". All dings should be at least watertight even if they look unsightly. Delamination is rare but can happen especially on "backyard" i.e. home-made boards. Dents ("pressure dings") are common especially on the deck and can be a yardstick to the overall board strength and the amount of use the board may have had. It is perfectly normal to have pressure dings on the deck and these will be covered up when the board is waxed. Lastly check that the fins are soundly attached. The glassed in variety have a tendency to crack at the base. The only solution is to remove a loose fin & re-glass it on again properly, this can be done in a tidy manner but if you pay someone to do it for you it will easily cost upwards of £20 per fin. Most of the top Custom Surfboard brand names, for example, Robert August, Donald Takiyama, Dewy Weber and many others are now starting to embrace the new epoxy technology and offering their boards in a choice of either traditional construction (polyurethane foam/polyester resin) or the stronger epoxy/polystyrene sandwich construction. To acheive this, epoxy boards are either "built in house" (expensive!) or signature model clones made in the Far East and marketed mostly by "Surf-tec" and "Boardworks".

EPOXY CUSTOM SURFBOARDS are quite similar to Traditional Fibreglass (above) in many ways.. you start off with a foam blank just the same but in this case its Polystyrene (Expanded  Poly Styrene) foam rather than Polyurethane foam. Now as normal (polyester) resin melts polystyrene foam then you now have to use epoxy resin. The board is still wrapped in fibreglass cloth as before but you need more of it as the polystyrene core has no inherent strength of it's own. A traditional board gets it's structural strength from each of it's components whereas an epoxy board has all it's strength in the "shell". This means that it takes knocks better. An epoxy board is painted last (like a car) which does mean that it "chips" easily but you can touch it up with carpaint from Halfords! Because of the fact it's painted last a lot of people think these boards are moulded, that is not the case, they are entirely hand made, more so than quite a few "hand made" customs! Again, these boards are quite OK for learning on... as long as you get the correct size. It won't be as strong as a Bic or NSP but it will be more progressive. Generally being not as thick and clunky as an NSP or ACS Bic, it will perform better  in "green" unbroken waves.

Although stronger than Traditional Fibreglass boards, Epoxy boards still get some pressure dings on the deck (more of a settling in really) and you can still damage them. They are easy to fix using EPOXY repair putty.

The Epoxy v Fibreglass debate...

Epoxy boards ride differently as they float higher in the water (Polystyrene core) ... in fact thats better when your learning, but this is arguable as the heavier "shell" (on entry-level anyway) means that in reality there is little difference.

Epoxy is better because it doesn't flex as much... Some people think that flex is a good thing and some people think that it is a bad thing.

Epoxy boards are more environmently friendly... True.

Epoxy boards use polystyrene which is freely available the world over so low stable prices usually prevail... True.

This is the industry name for the posh version of Epoxy Custom above. At this level they use all the lightest and most expensive materials for the "shell". This includes shock-absorbing layers, hexel and things more often found on lightweightracing cars. Boards are generally built around a pre-shaped (moulded) core originated by a master shaper. This will then be his "signature model". Expect to pay £600-£1000 for this type of board!

This is more cutting-edge technology which involves a moulded blank with hollow compartments. This is top-end expensive stuff, you can get more info from their website at www.salomonscore.com

Thats the reality of boards coming out of the far east... they are new but the same price as we are used to paying for secondhand boards made in the UK.

Hey, what if you have a well known UK brand and you just make a few boards here to fool the punters whilst secretly having most of them shipped in from China with the same logos on, you could sell at UK made prices and make twice the money!

Congratulations... you just woke up and smelt the bacon!

Nothing then, is as it seems... we live in a global economy and with "ghost shapers", shaping machines and cloning, to be honest there is no telling who, what and where all those shiney surfboards in your local surf shop window really came from. But does it really matter... The guy that made your rugby boots doesn't play rugby and for your part you've never had this much choice at this low a price. 

Finally... a word about pop-outs..

Thats covered most of whats out there at the moment, that just leaves the "OLD STUFF"

POP-OUTS

Difficult one this because the term pop-out is used by some to describe any board that is not hand shaped. By unfortunate association with the crappy old moulded boards of yesteryear, the word Pop-Out has become derogatory and it's use, in surfing terms, akin to a racist slur.

Even a custom board starts it's life in a mould ("blowing the blank") yet if a mould is used in any other board, at any time in the manufacturing process, some wiseass says "Pop-Out". Given the level of technology and sophistication that is at last being applied to surfboards in the last couple of years, calling some of them "Pop-Outs" is like saying that the Space Shuttle is just "an aeroplane".

So this is what a Pop-Out really is (or was)... These boards were made in moulds and each one pops out the same as the last, hence the name. Both halves of the mould are laid up with fiberglass chop strand mat (immensely heavy and still used for kit cars, yacht hulls etc) and white resin, chemically expanding foam forms the core. A fillet of white resin is then used to cover the seam along the sides ("rails"). Sometimes this fillet is sanded flush to make the board resemble a custom to the untrained eye. Graphics, either paint or vinyl are applied to the outside of the board.

Their main drawback is that they are much heavier than the Eiffel Tower. This extra weight reduces performance, which is no bad thing if your learning but it also means that the board packs a hefty wallop if it hits you! This type of board has been the only entry-level option and mainstay of British hire shops for 30 years and a first buy for very many people. Many makes & shapes exist. A lot were made in the Freebird Factory locally and much "badge engineering" has taken place. This old technology mostly exists on E-Bay now (and on the roof of tourists cars!). If you are daft enough to consider buying one of these dinosaurs then this is what to look for...

When viewing a prospective purchase check for delamination (separation of the skin from the core). This is a common fault; the deck is usually the first place to go. If the rest of the board is sound and the delaminated area has not reached epic proportions and the board is still watertight and the board is cheap then it can still be a viable option. You can always re-sell it to another clueless victim after you have learnt to ride it and recoup most, sometimes all, of your money.

If however water can get inside the board then it should be rejected. Check the fins and finboxes are sound and that there are no sharp edges on the "rails". POP-OUTS have a coolness factor of zero. They are old technology and outdated. We no longer hire them out due to their weight...we are trying to make the sea a safer place!

WAVE-TEC (not to be confused with SURF-TEC)

Closely related to the POP-OUT, made in the same moulds but using woven fibreglass cloth (same as Custom boards), making them a good bit lighter. Usually white, with seams ground flush and nice painted-on graphics, often stripes but not always, rather than stick on decals. Costs and sizes options available when production ended in 2002 were 9' mal @ about £259, 7'10" mini-mal @ around £229 & 7'3"mini-mal @ around £199. Watch out for delamination on second-hand boards. Make the same checks as for pop-outs. We have fond memories of these, they were good in their day (which has gone!) Watch out for people selling these on E-bay saying that they paid £300 for it!

EPOXY HARD

Forerunner to the NSP. In this case two halves were stapled together over a polystyrene core, then sealed in Epoxy. Similar to the Hard & Soft but hard on both sides and with a gloss finish. The boards weigh in at just a tad heavier than a custom of the same size. Another advantage of the epoxy construction is that it is about five times stronger than a custom board and it can be repaired with products stocked by Halfords for car repairs! In use they go pretty well but have a tendancy to finally split open at the nose. Once broken in this way they are pretty much impossible to repair.

This covers the main types of boards that you may encounter. No list can be definitative though so if you need further info on surfboards, phone us on 01271/890453